The never-ending project to fill my hole in the ocean while bailing it out

Preparing for Season ‘05

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Description

Today was Day One of Season '05, and the question was, "where do I start first?" The port side stern pulpit was not the right answer: I drilled its holes about a ¼" too far aft, just hitting the plywood frame in the transom, leaving no room for the "blind mounting kit's" toggle bolts. (They don't call it "blind mounting" for nothing!) I filled the errant holes with a mixture of epoxy, colloidal silica and some white tint then moved on to the starboard side. The second time around I drilled the holes ¼" more forward, the pulpit's aft foot right on the forward edge of the transom, and got it perfect. "Practice makes perfect,"  and this wasn't the first time I've had to do a job twice before getting it right -- just the first time this season!  (Apr. 9, 2005)

Go to Stern Pulpit, Stanchions and Lifelines Project

While below in the cabin removing that one old stanchion, I noticed that the pop top gasket had dramatically deteriorated from last season; the few small gaps were now gaping spaces ... so I jumped to yet another new project ...
I've never been able to raise the pop top since I've had Chip Ahoy: the gasket had cemented it solid to the cabin top; lifting it was impossible. This was extremely low on my priority list of things that needed to get done back then, so I put it aside for someday down the road, maybe. This is the year, and this is the first time I've had it up, thanks to two more years of gasket deterioration. (Apr. 9, 2005)

Go to Pop Top Project

The rudder modifications are now completed. (Apr. 15, 2005)

Go to Solving the Rudder Slop Project
Go to the Increasing Rudder Lift Leverage Project

I added a booster assist gas-operated cylinder to Chip Ahoy's adjustable OMC motor mount, which will make hauling up the Tohatsu 9.9 hp outboard a whole lot easier.  (Apr. 24, 2005)

Go to Outboard Motor Mound Project

Last season, after completing the All Lines Led Aft project, a new problem developed: the lines coming back to the cockpit were wearing grooves in the fiberglass where they turned over the cabin top edge. Once I recognized this, I took precautions when hauling in on them to minimize the wear, but recognized that a better and permanent solution was needed. Wally Riddle ("Carpe Diem") offered one after stopping by the other day: stainless steel rub strakes he saw advertised by West Marine. I bought a pair and installed them today.  (Apr. 29, 2005)

Go to Rub Strakes Modification

I've not been satisfied with the end result after installing the stern pulpit, how wobbly the two stern rails were when any pressure was applied to the stern lifeline connecting the two. Using Skip Meisch's modification as a plan, I reinforced the two rails using mostly remnant parts, materials and tools from past projects. After about an hour and a half's labor, the stern pulpit is now rock solid.   (May 1, 2005)

Go to Reinforcing the Stern Pulpit

I've added a traveler car and control lines leading forward this year so that I won't have to dig out the pliers and wrestle with those nuisance thumbscrews each time I want to adjust the mainsheet traveler.

Go to Traveler Car and Control Lines Project

For the first two years, I've used a 14 pound Danforth as my primary anchor. (I've got a 9 pound Danforth with chain and rode stowed beneath the cockpit sole as a backup.) This season I've changed over to a 14 pound Lewmar Delta (Simpson-Lawrence) Fast Set anchor. It's reportedly a superior anchor with better holding power on most bottoms, and I've rigged it to ride better on the bow roller. The fluke and anchor are one-piece so the flukes won't bounce with the waves like the Danforth's tended to do, even tied down.  "Carpe Diem," Wally Riddle's C22, is parked in the background. (May 13, 2005)

See close-up details

I drilled a hole through its shank in line with the quick release pin holes in the anchor roller, then inserted the pin.

See close-up details

The Delta Fast Set anchor has a hole for a trip line that can be added to assist breaking loose the anchor from the bottom. I used it to further secure the anchor away from the bow, running a line through it and up to the bow pulpit.

The anchor and roller seen from topside.

See close-up details

I didn't like the way I'd run the line ran from the anchor trip line hole: it somewhat obstructed the running lights. So after waxing the boat today, I rearranged the line, tying if off further back on the bow pulpit.  (May 14)

See close-up details of the anchor/pulpit

Detailed enlargement of hull after waxing (large file)
Like a mirror, it reflects the shadow of the boat and anchor,
and even the nearby step ladder straddling the roller-furler.

The anchor and roller after the roller-furler is mounted while the boat is rigged and readied for launch.  The furler drum clears the anchor shank by about an inch, as I'd hoped it would. I added a 25' trip line, clipped to the pulpit with a carabineer on its end. The carabineer attaches to the twist shackle on the anchor when deployed; the other end will be tied to a spare fender for flotation.  (Jun. 1, 2005)

See close-up detail

See:  Installing Anchor Suspension Jaw Clamps on Bow Pulpit